Tired of burnt amplifiers?

How should one think when it comes to the final step? A common mistake is not thinking about how much current an output stage actually draws and therefore not having enough battery power. What you should think is, Power in = Power out. Therefore, it is good to add one or more batteries that can power the equipment you have in the car and that it is connected correctly.

Option 1:

• 1000W Output stage Class D with approximately 80% efficiency
• Needs about 1200W to work…
• If you have 14.4 Volts, it will be 1200 / 14.4 = 83 Amps
• If instead you have 12 Volt 1200 /12 = 100A

Option 2:

• 1000W in 2Ohm Output Class D with approximately 80% efficiency
• Needs about 1200W to work…
• If the step can be downloaded into 1Ohm
• So to deliver 2000W, 2400W is used
• 2400 / 12 = 200A

So depending on which output stage you have and how you connect it, it is important to keep an eye on the output stage's power consumption and that you have sufficient battery power that is able to deliver the power that the output stage is specified for.

Say you have an output stage that can pull up to 280A but only a 75Ah battery and a 90 amp alternator, it almost goes without saying that in this case you will eventually burn out the output stage because there is not enough power/ battery strength. If you have the same output stage and the same battery of 75Ah+90 ampere generator but add 3 extra batteries of 90Ah each, 3x90Ah, you minimize the risk of the output stage burning due to too little current.

Then maintenance charging is also important, if you are out riding all night/weekend it is important that you charge the batteries when you get home, otherwise they may not have had time to be fully charged and you burn the final stage at the next gig.

Are you unsure which type of output stage will suit you and your equipment? You are very welcome to contact our awesome support who will help you find the right one!